Writing Contest

Do you have an area of research that you would like to write about?  Do you have a short how to on a specific costume?  Are you looking for a site to publish your work?
Costume Connections is having a contest.  Submit your article to: katcover@hotmail.com

Rules:  Contest will consist of a given time period, contest 1, will end on Dec. 1, 2011.  Articles will be chosen for publication by the site supervisor and may be edited for content and length.  The Winner will recieve a $50.00 gift certificate to Grandpa Snazzy's Theatrical.  The winner will be chosen from all qualified entries by an outside reader.  All results are final.

Thanks for your interest and Good Luck.

Caring for Old Shoes

I never had a costuming class that included special care for specific items in storage.  All the ideas I use are from real experience and advice from others that I have worked with.  I will occasionally share a pearl or two on care of specific items.

Shoes are hard to store, they take up an enormous amount of space and that is something always in short supply.  First always clean shoes before storing.  Spray the inside with disinfecting spray and let completely dry.  If they are leather a good cleaning with leather conditioner to help retain moisture then polish.  It may seem counter intuitive to polish before storing, but leather is fragile and the added protection and moisture will extend the life of the shoes.

If the shoes are made from a man made material wiping them down with a vinyl cleaner will help, Armour all has vinyl products made to take care of the interior of your car and they work well on vinyl shoes as well.

The best way to store shoes is on a rack so air can flow around them.  If that is not possible then a storage container that allows air is better than a sealed tub.  If you can find shoe forms to place in the shoes it will also extend the life of the shoe.

Very old shoes become fragile and are prone to a dry rot.  Leather moisturizer may help bring back a pair of shoes but once they get too dry they become a decorator piece instead of wearable.

New soles and new heel tips are often inexpensive compared to the cost of replacing a good period shoe.  Find a reliable shoe repair shop and use them often.

If you care for period shoes they will last many a year.

How to do accurate measurements

The first step in any costuming project is to get the most accurate measurements you can.  Each shop that I have worked at has had a different way of recording measurements for a show or project, but the measurements are usually the same.  Abbreviations on the chart or sheet are also used often to conserve space.

One choice is a page for each person, this works well when you have a lot of building and many hands doing the work.  You can have the complete measurements for one person at the work area.

Example

Name_____________________

Character____________________

Height__________ Weight______________Hair color_______________

Bust_________

Under bust_______

Waist_______________

Hips_____________

Back Shoulder_________

Neck________

Head_________

Arm_________

Sleeve____________

Wrist__________

Nape to waist Front__________

Nape to waist back_________

Underarm to Waist_________

Waist to floor___________

Waist to knee___________

Inseam________________

Shoe_________

Dress size_________

Pant size_________

This is just an example.  The required measurements may differ from shop to shop.   The other measurement sheet is done as a spreadsheet and is used when a lot of measurements are needed together.  This is the type of sheet that most rental houses use.

Actor	Character	Chest	Waist	Hips

Etc.

This is just to show as example the spread sheet would be much bigger.

O.K so now you need to fill it in.  This is my measuring method for most major measurements.  Some tailors and other constructors of clothing measure in different ways.

Head is across forehead above ears

Neck is at the base, think buttoned collar.

Shoulder is as if wearing a tight t-shirt seam to seam

Sleeve is from the center of the back down a bent arm to the wrist.

Arm is just shoulder to wrist straight armed.

This is just a starting place,  It is important that everyone working with the measurements knows how they were taken, so a more accurate fit can be achieved.

Clean smelling stock

I recently had a schoolteacher ask how I stopped my stock from smelling bad.  This took me by surprise, it seamed like a silly question, I keep my stock clean.

As I thought about it a bit longer, I realized it is a bit more than that.

When storing large quantities of clothing clean is a relative term.  Before anything is re-hung I either wash or dry clean it.  Yet that is what was done in other shops I worked at and there was still a residual smell in the storage shop.  So what have I learned to do different?

Washing:  I always use unscented additive free laundry soap.  This is a courtesy for customers with allergies, the same with dryer sheets (which I only use with polyester items).  That eliminates the smell of detergents in the storage unit.  Some soaps have a very strong odor that stays with the costume for a long time.

A word on front load washers.  The newer washers that have a front load versus a top load, use a lot less water and soap and can save a lot of time on laundry, but when not in use they must be left open.  They are so water sealed that if left closed they will get musty and that smell will get into the clothes you are washing.

Dry cleaning:  Modern dry cleaning is much better on fabrics than older methods but many people complain about the “dry cleaning” smell. A regional dry cleaner explained the smell to me that it was not the chemicals themselves that smelled but the odors from previous loads run through the machine leaving odors in the chemicals.  I believe that is part of it but there is also an odor to the chemicals themselves. 

The first step after items are returned from the cleaners is to take the plastic bag off as soon as possible.  The bag stops natural evaporation of odors and holds the smell in.  Then hang on an open rack with space between items to air.  If possible let them hang on a separate rack for a few days to a week before putting them into stock.  If there is still an odor to the item there is a great product called “Odor Ban” that can be sprayed on the item then left to air.  This product is a step up from general odor removers and is used by fire abatement people to remove the smell of a fire.  I have found it far superior to “Fabreeze” like products.

Cleaning Accessories:  Shoes are always tough to get clean.  The first step is to wash or brush off any obvious dirt.  Then spray with a disinfectant spray.  Not a light spray but soak the interior of the shoe.  Let stand until completely dry.  If possible store shoes on shelves instead of in a box.  This lets the air move around it.  If you must use boxes to store shoes, leave to top off.  For a really tough odor place baking soda in a pair of old socks and put inside shoes to soak up the odor.

Hats: Clean out any residual makeup on the sweatband of the hat, again use a disinfectant spray.  Turn the hat upside down and let air in an open space.  Be sure to completely air a hat before storing.  I store good hats inside plastic bags to help keep them free of dust.  Do not use a recycled dry cleaning bag for this, as the dry leaning odor will get into the hat.

Feather Boas: Boas often pick up the smells of perfume and makeup.  To eliminate the odor a “Dryel” cleaning will often do the trick.  Use a short cycle and always use the bag to stop feathers from clogging up the dryer.  Then hang the boa where it gets air movement.  Do not put boas in plastic boxes; they are a natural product and holds up better when allowed to air.

The most important and hardest thing to achieve is space between items on the rack.  Every costume shop I have ever been in is short on storage.  The more air circulation clothing gets the better.  A tightly packed rack does not allow airflow.  If the storage room is in a basement or very tight space a fan moving air around will help quite a bit.

The main thing to remember here is clean.  One or two sweaty smelling items, put into a crowded rack, will make the whole rack smell.

Recomended Books

The value of a good book is never known until you need it.  An extensive sorce library is essential to any costumer.
The following list will be added onto as time allows (If you purchase them through this collection it will help support the blog)
Please feel free to contact me with your suggestions.

20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment by Francois Boucher
  An essential basic Book.

From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking by Denise Dreher
  The all time best hat book.

Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes by A. Racinet
  Great source for ethnic looks.

The Book of Costume by Millia Davenport
  Sometimes hard to find but wonderful photos of original sources.

Historic Costume for the Stage by Lucy Barton
  Not a lot of Illastrations but some great referances, Charts of shows by time period. 

Costumers Handbook
    A classic basic book by Ingham and Covey

The Costume Technician's Handbook: A Complete Guide for Amateur andPro.
  How to book for costume construction and accessories.

Faux Leather Techniques

Intro

 Many variations of this technique have been used in theatrical costuming and props through history. The original technique used horse glue and wool.  The basic uses for this technique are anything that requires stiffness i.e. Armour, belts and hats.  In the prop realm it can be used for shields, bags and luggage.  The limits are only defined by your imagination.

Supplies

Elmers glue

Water tight tub or can

Felt (With at least a small amount of wool)  

Canvas for sturdy items

Sewing machine

Forms to shape items on

Shoe polish

Amber Shellac

For Armour, Grommets and lacing

1. Create a design on paper ahead of time.  It helps to be ready with all the elements before getting to the molding stage.
2. Cut out the basic shapes. If you need extra strength cut one of felt and a second of canvas.  Sew the two pieces together and turn under and sew raw edges.  This helps with a more finished look.
3. Mix Elmer’s glue 50-50 with water in an airtight container.
4. Prepare the form by covering it with plastic bags or plastic sheeting.  If you do not cover the form, you run the risk of the fabric sticking and ruining the project and the form.
5. Dip the basic shape in the glue mixture, be sure it soaks all the way through the fabric.  Squeeze out the excess glue.  Try not to wring or twist the item as wrinkles may form that cannot be removed or the shape may be distorted.
6. Place on the form, rubbing out all the wrinkles and air bubbles. Let dry.  This will take 24-48 hours depending on humidity and the thickness of your felt.
7. When thoroughly dry remove from the form.

Embellishment

For a richer look to the leather you can use shoe polish rubbed into the felt, It can help with definition and a look of age.  If parts are to be attached together grommet the pieces at this stage.

You can also use hot melt glue to add decoration directly to the surface at this point or glue on cording or trim to enhance the surface

For leather look a final 1-2 coats of old fashioned amber shellac adds a deeper hue to the item.

Be sure that all the elements are dry before use.

Storage

The life of these items is entirely dependent on keeping them dry.  All of the stiffeners are water soluble and will over time dampness will damage the piece.  If a piece is stored wrong and becomes misshapen use a steamer to help bring back the shape.

Recommended Books

ARMS AND ARMOUR OF THE IMPERIAL ROMAN SOLDIER: From Marius to Commodus

Roman Legionary 58 BC-AD 69

Welcome

This is the first post of what I hope will be many.  Costume connection is for anyone interested in Theatrical Costumes or historic costume, construction, use and preservation.  With over 25 years in the industry I am always being asked questions and find that other sites are hard to use.  My hope is to create a place for information that is useful and timely.  If you have articles or links you would like to share please contact me.