Clean smelling stock

I recently had a schoolteacher ask how I stopped my stock from smelling bad.  This took me by surprise, it seamed like a silly question, I keep my stock clean.

As I thought about it a bit longer, I realized it is a bit more than that.

When storing large quantities of clothing clean is a relative term.  Before anything is re-hung I either wash or dry clean it.  Yet that is what was done in other shops I worked at and there was still a residual smell in the storage shop.  So what have I learned to do different?

Washing:  I always use unscented additive free laundry soap.  This is a courtesy for customers with allergies, the same with dryer sheets (which I only use with polyester items).  That eliminates the smell of detergents in the storage unit.  Some soaps have a very strong odor that stays with the costume for a long time.

A word on front load washers.  The newer washers that have a front load versus a top load, use a lot less water and soap and can save a lot of time on laundry, but when not in use they must be left open.  They are so water sealed that if left closed they will get musty and that smell will get into the clothes you are washing.

Dry cleaning:  Modern dry cleaning is much better on fabrics than older methods but many people complain about the “dry cleaning” smell. A regional dry cleaner explained the smell to me that it was not the chemicals themselves that smelled but the odors from previous loads run through the machine leaving odors in the chemicals.  I believe that is part of it but there is also an odor to the chemicals themselves. 

The first step after items are returned from the cleaners is to take the plastic bag off as soon as possible.  The bag stops natural evaporation of odors and holds the smell in.  Then hang on an open rack with space between items to air.  If possible let them hang on a separate rack for a few days to a week before putting them into stock.  If there is still an odor to the item there is a great product called “Odor Ban” that can be sprayed on the item then left to air.  This product is a step up from general odor removers and is used by fire abatement people to remove the smell of a fire.  I have found it far superior to “Fabreeze” like products.

Cleaning Accessories:  Shoes are always tough to get clean.  The first step is to wash or brush off any obvious dirt.  Then spray with a disinfectant spray.  Not a light spray but soak the interior of the shoe.  Let stand until completely dry.  If possible store shoes on shelves instead of in a box.  This lets the air move around it.  If you must use boxes to store shoes, leave to top off.  For a really tough odor place baking soda in a pair of old socks and put inside shoes to soak up the odor.

Hats: Clean out any residual makeup on the sweatband of the hat, again use a disinfectant spray.  Turn the hat upside down and let air in an open space.  Be sure to completely air a hat before storing.  I store good hats inside plastic bags to help keep them free of dust.  Do not use a recycled dry cleaning bag for this, as the dry leaning odor will get into the hat.

Feather Boas: Boas often pick up the smells of perfume and makeup.  To eliminate the odor a “Dryel” cleaning will often do the trick.  Use a short cycle and always use the bag to stop feathers from clogging up the dryer.  Then hang the boa where it gets air movement.  Do not put boas in plastic boxes; they are a natural product and holds up better when allowed to air.

The most important and hardest thing to achieve is space between items on the rack.  Every costume shop I have ever been in is short on storage.  The more air circulation clothing gets the better.  A tightly packed rack does not allow airflow.  If the storage room is in a basement or very tight space a fan moving air around will help quite a bit.

The main thing to remember here is clean.  One or two sweaty smelling items, put into a crowded rack, will make the whole rack smell.